Landscape Edging Calculator
Calculate landscape edging materials for garden beds, paths, and driveways. Supports steel, aluminum, plastic, stone, and brick edging with cost estimates.
How to Calculate Landscape Edging
To estimate landscape edging, measure the total linear footage around the garden bed, path, or driveway you want to border. For curved beds, use a flexible tape measure or lay a garden hose along the edge and then measure the hose. Once you have the total length, divide by the section length (or roll length) for your chosen material to get the number of pieces needed. Always round up to the nearest whole section.
Edging Material Comparison
| Material | Cost | Durability | Look | Difficulty | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steel | $$ | Excellent (20+ years) | Clean, modern lines | Moderate | Garden beds, formal landscapes |
| Aluminum | $$ | Very Good (15+ years) | Sleek, won't rust | Moderate | Coastal areas, curved beds |
| Plastic/Poly | $ | Good (5-10 years) | Subtle, hidden border | Easy | Budget projects, DIY installs |
| Brick | $$$ | Excellent (25+ years) | Traditional, classic | Moderate-Hard | Formal gardens, historic homes |
| Natural Stone | $$$$ | Excellent (lifetime) | Rustic, organic | Hard | Naturalistic landscapes, premium builds |
Installation Tips by Material
- Steel & Aluminum: Dig a narrow trench the depth of the edging height. Place sections end-to-end and connect with overlap connectors. Drive stakes every 3 feet and at every joint. Use corner connectors for 90-degree turns.
- Plastic/Poly: Dig a shallow trench and unroll the edging along the border. Stake every 2 feet for a firm hold, especially on curves. Overlap sections by at least 6 inches and secure with landscape staples.
- Brick: Excavate a trench slightly wider than the brick width. Lay a 2-4 inch gravel base, compact it, and set bricks end-to-end. Use mortar for a permanent installation or dry-set for easy future adjustments. Backfill with soil on both sides.
- Natural Stone: Dig a trench and add a compacted gravel base. Arrange stones tightly, varying sizes for a natural look. Fill gaps with smaller stones or polymeric sand. Heavier stones may not need mortar.
How Deep Should Landscape Edging Be?
Most landscape edging should be buried with about two-thirds of its height below ground level. For 4-inch edging, bury about 2.5-3 inches. For 6-inch edging, bury about 4 inches. For 8-inch edging, bury about 5-6 inches. Deeper installation provides a better barrier against grass runners and helps the edging stay upright. Brick and stone edging typically sits on a 2-4 inch gravel base for drainage and stability.
Maintenance Guide
- Steel: Inspect annually for rust spots. Apply rust-resistant spray if the coating chips. Straighten any sections shifted by freeze-thaw cycles.
- Aluminum: Virtually maintenance-free. Check stakes and connectors each spring and re-secure as needed.
- Plastic: Replace sections that become brittle or pop out of the ground. Re-stake after heavy rain or frost heave. Expect to replace every 5-10 years.
- Brick: Re-level shifted bricks. Repoint mortar joints every few years. Apply polymeric sand between dry-set bricks to prevent weed growth.
- Stone: Reset any stones that shift. Top up gravel base if settling occurs. Pull weeds from joints and refresh polymeric sand as needed.
After installing your edging, fill the bed with mulch or gravel to suppress weeds and retain moisture. For hardscape borders, consider pairing edging with a paver walkway or patio for a polished look.
Frequently Asked Questions
The best material depends on your budget, style, and maintenance preference. Steel edging is the most popular choice among professionals for its clean lines and long lifespan. Aluminum is ideal for coastal climates because it will not rust. Plastic edging is the most affordable and easiest to install, making it great for DIY projects. Brick and natural stone offer a premium look but require more labor and a gravel base for proper installation.
Landscape edging should be buried with roughly two-thirds of its height below the soil surface. For 4-inch edging, bury about 2.5 to 3 inches deep. For 6-inch edging, bury about 4 inches. For 8-inch edging, bury 5 to 6 inches. This depth prevents grass from creeping underneath and keeps the edging firmly in place through freeze-thaw cycles and heavy rain.
For curves, flexible materials like plastic roll edging and aluminum work best. Lay a garden hose on the ground to outline your desired curve before digging. For steel edging, use shorter sections and angle them slightly at each joint to follow the curve. Brick and stone can follow gentle curves by fanning the joints slightly wider on the outside edge. For tight curves with metal edging, look for specialty curved connectors or use a series of short straight sections.
Costs vary widely by material. Steel edging runs about $1.25 to $3.00 per linear foot. Aluminum edging costs $1.00 to $2.75 per foot. Plastic or poly edging is the cheapest at $0.75 to $2.00 per foot. Brick edging costs $1.50 to $3.75 per foot for materials only. Natural stone is the most expensive at roughly $2.85 to $10.00 per foot depending on the type of stone. These prices do not include labor, stakes, connectors, or gravel base materials.
Landscape fabric is not required but is a helpful complement, especially if you are filling the bordered area with mulch or gravel. The fabric suppresses weeds from below while the edging keeps the fill material contained. For best results, lay the fabric over the soil, cut holes for plants, and cover with 2-3 inches of mulch. Skip the fabric if you are planting densely or using a living ground cover, as it can restrict root growth over time.